11th August - Day 17 - Piñera to La Caridad - 16km plus a side trip of 4kms to the port!
On the road at 7am. Dawn not yet broken. Mist surrounds us but we can see the path. It’s about 3km through country roads passing farms with lots of good looking cows and we moo good morning at each other before we hit a place open for coffee. It’s a 4 star hotel and they have comfy seats we sink into while we enjoy a grande cafe con leche. It’s delicious and one of the best coffees we have had on the trip. We don’t want to leave!
Reluctantly peel ourselves off our seats, there is walking to be done. As we leave the hotel we bump into the Italian and Turkish couple. We walk with them for a few kms. We need to get better with asking peoples names! She reminds me so much of my friend Ozge in how she talks and what she says. She is from the Asian side of Istanbul and every time she gets on the ferry to cross the Bosphorus it steels her heart again. We reach the town of Navia. Sadly say goodbye. We would have loved to walk with them longer but this was the last place to get food until we reach our destination.
Find a cute bar, order tortilla and order another round of coffees. In addition they give us some pieces of the local cake for free. Yum!
Fueled up we hit the road. It’s a fair climb out of town. The pictures don’t capture the quaintness of the town.
Easy walk today through fields and not too much road.
The albergue is in the edge of town and we reach it before midday. It’s a large room of 22 beds with one shower and one toilet for women and the same for men. It has a small table inside, the same outside, a vending machine for coffee and one with snacks. It’s €7 per person. There are 2 other pilgrims already here. They heqd into town and we have the place to ourselves to shower and wash our clothes.
It’s 12:35pm and we debate whether we will find lunch starting at 1 or 2pm. It seems to vary. We have time so we walk 2km to the port. The mist still surrounds us and seems longer than 2km, it’s uninspiring road.
Pretty little port village. Friendly tourist information. Not sure if it was worth the 4km round trip.
The mist lifts and the sun bears down on us as we walk back. Lucky we found a nicer walk back than the road.
Time for lunch and the town doesn’t seem to have anywhere for food. Finally find a restaurant and sit in their bar area as all the tables are booked.
Order a massive salad and even larger veal Kiev thing. It’s the speciality of the house. Daz is in heaven. He eats most of it.
Over full Daz wants to go back to the albergue for a food coma nap but on the way we tuc into the sister albergue. We see Chavi, he introduces us to Rosie originally from the UK but has lived most of her adult life in Italy. Have a great chin wag and she invites us back later for a pot luck dinner. She seems to have also met most all of the people we have run into on our Camino.
Back at our albergue it is now full of about a dozen 20yo Spaniard lads. Their body odour hits Kim in the face. We think her smells is finally returning. Yay. Pity this has to be the first major smell she experienced. I nap while Kim reads. We check in and then head back to the sister albergue. Find Rosie in the courtyard. Charvi number 1 and 2 appear and we introduce them! Ukrainian Vlad joins us. He already knows Rosie and Chavi 2. They offer is food but we are still stuffed from lunch. We share wine, olives, carrots, hommus and chocolate and chat away the evening. The sun sets just before 10pm, the wind picks up and it’s time for bed. Rosie wants to party but we take a rain check.
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