16 August - Day 21 - Gontan to Vilalba - 24kms
The dorm room of 22 beds was only half full so a relatively snore free night. It was cold though. Kim had to wear her leggings, socks, long sleeve top and puffer to bed.
Up early. It's still chilly. It rained overnight and threatening more rain. Walk the 750m to the first open bar for breakfast. It seems the place to be. They have the heating way up (What energy crisis?). Too hot to sit in the dinning room. We find a table in the bar near the door. We bump into the American gang of 5 from Colorado again - 3rd day in a row.
It rains while we are eating, but clears before we leave.
Easy walk through nice countryside. The wind drops and the sun comes out. Hot. Stop to peel off a few layers.
There is a local guy selling his handmade carvings on an old Roman bridge crossing a crystal clear stream (not the bridge above!). He asks why we are walking the Camino. It's a common question and everyone has a different answer. Originally it was to have a new experience. To challenge ourselves physically and mentally. It's way to immerse yourself in a country. I'd say that's still true, but now there is more. There is a simplicity to our cadence. Get up, pack all we need in our little packs, find a bar for breakfast, walk by following the yellow arrows till we find somewhere to eat or sleep, repeat. Life is simple. We intentionally decided not to get international roaming or a local SIM. Disconnected... at least until we stay at a place with WIFI.
Slow travel. Being present. Aware of the birds singing, leaves crunching underfoot, the smell of the trees and flowers. The rustle and whoosh of the wind through the corn fields. The sounds and smells from the farm and animals. Connected...to our immediate surroundings.
Halfway throurgh today's walk we reach a village and are ready for a coffee so find a bar to satiate ourselves. The rain starts again. We layer up. Spend the next 2 hours walking in the rain. Sheltering under some big trees for 15 mins or so while it was really chucking it down.
Peel off our clothes and enjoy a luxurious rain shower and convert our lovely 1 bedroom apartment into a Chinese laundry.
We are literally next door to a supermarket. Should never send Kim to a supermarket hungry. She returns with pork medallions, a huge salad, cucumber, pepper, fresh pasta, tomato salsa, gazpacho, crackers, blue cheese, olives stuffed with lemon, yogurt, raspberries, milk, chocolate covered almonds and wine. I'm not sure it's possible to eat it all before leave tomorrow morning!
Spend the afternoon eating, drinking blogging and watching movies while the rain taps on the window.
Oh the simplicity of life on the road - how I miss it so much already. You described it perfectly. I like the way hungry Kim shops :)
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