15 August - Day 20 - Lourenza to Gontan 22kms
After our longest day yesterday our feet were still sore when we woke up this morning.
Breakfast of toast, jamon, cheese, tomato purée and olive oil. It was huge. Leaving town we hit a hill, it was hard going on a full stomach.
We can see Mondoñado in the valley and the wind turbines on the ridge line high above it. The 8km to Mondoñado is mainly on trail lots of gum trees. Really pretty. Could walk on this kind of trail all day!
Coffee and tortilla in the town square with a perfect view of the cathedral. Daz went to see if we could get a stamp. Nope! But he'd did get a photo of the frescos. Stay for a little longer to soak in the ambience and watching the square wake up.
We have 2 options out of Mondoñado to get to Gontán. Both involve a climb, the first is steeper with more elevation then some downhill but is 4km shorter at 11.9km the other more gradual at 15.9km. The long way has more paved road and apparently less scenic. We choose the steep way.
The guide book says it’s a little confusing to get out of town. All the arrows leading out of town try to direct pilgrims to the long way. After a few false starts we find the right path out of town. First few kms are easy, actually downhill a bit. Then we hit the 4km climb with 450m of elevation. We climb and climb and climb. It feels good to get the heart pumping.
High five at the top. We are now standing next the wind turbines that were in the distant and they whoosh as the wind picks up. There are hundreds of them on these high plains and ridges.
Now downhill - boo - 2.2km to Gontan where we hope we will find a bed in the municipal albergue which you can’t book.
Arrive at 1:30 check in and head to the only bar open in town.
All the pelegrinos were hanging inside and out on the pavement having a cold beer before they continue on. Our feet were done. There was no continuing on for us today.
No food other that bocadillas. Kim wants the vegetable one without the tuna (go figure!) but with cheese. I don’t have the energy. In Kim’s perfect Spanglish she gets exactly what she wants. Winning.
At the back of the bar is a little supermarket so we buy fruit, chocolate, water and beer. What more do you need in life!
Shower and settle in. Read and look at options to Santiago. Sort our route for the final few days. Will just make our 400km!
Head back to the bar for another bocadillas as nothing else available. Kim announces she is going on a bread detox effective immediately. We will see how long that lasts. Meet Luigi from Italy and share our love of Italy. She tells us about a camino there The Abzurro. It’s one for the bucket list.
Back to the albergue. Blog. Read. Bed by 9pm.
Fruit, chocolate, beer and water sounds like a perfect way to finish a long couple of days. Looks like a beautiful walk today.
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